BIKING THROUGH THE HIMALAYAS: July 2019

Struggle in Vienna.
River Flooded with Nudity.
Assets of Bratislava.
Slovak Mountain Braille!
Currency Constraint.
Yacht Life.
Indian Food in Czech.
Pilsner – Alkaline Beer!
Bicycle Theft in Prague.
Fear on the Highway.
Last Trouble .

The Route

My Schengen visa was about to expire, and a long‑awaited cycle tour in Europe was finally possible after I gained confidence riding independently in the Himalayas. On our last trip we had already learned how to pack and transport bicycles for flights.

After a month of planning, we settled on a 17‑day itinerary across three countries: 15 days of riding, roughly 900 km, and 12 stops. The tour moved fast, but it was full of colour and memorable moments.

Rajesh Joshi, my regular partner, had work hassles and was juggling frequent trips to the US. Satya, who was joining his first long tour, was committed to a new project. Somehow they both managed to make time for the adventure. I was relatively free, having just completed the first phase of the Vietnam project.

Struggle in Vienna

Our first challenge upon landing in Vienna was getting to our homestay with all our gear—three bicycles packed in boxes and six bags. In hindsight, booking a large van would have been more convenient, but we wanted to keep the tour as budget-friendly as possible and had time to spare. So, we opted for public transport.

However, the journey took longer than expected since there was no direct train to Torststrasse. We had to switch from train to tram and then back to another train. Fortunately, the stations were close to each other, so the transfers weren’t too difficult.

By the time we reached our final station, it was already 11 PM—two hours after we’d left the airport. From there, we still had to carry our boxes and bags 800 meters to the homestay. Each cycle box weighed about 20 kg, not including the spare parts.

To manage, we devised a relay strategy:

Two people would carry one box and one bag each.
The third person would take the remaining four bags for the first 100 meters.
Then, one person would stay with the bags while the other two returned for the next two boxes.
We repeated this process six to eight times until everything was finally at the homestay.

Logistics at its finest!

Day 1: Danube River, Vienna

The second challenge was to get acquaintance with traffic rules. It was looking easier as all cycle lanes were defined but still, it was new for us. On the first day ride (inside Vienna only) I lost my mates on the way because of lane confusion.

St. Stephan Cathedral, Vienna

Thirdly, we found that Vienna had its share of grumpy old residents. While we were assembling our bicycles in the backyard, several elderly people confronted us, shouting in German. Fortunately, not understanding the language softened the blow a bit. This happened two or three times before we finally finished preparing our bikes.
That was still manageable, but our patience was truly tested on the fourth day of our ride. The homestay owner informed us that the apartment management had thrown away our bicycle cartons, which we had carefully stored in the basement. These boxes were essential for packing our bikes for the return trip to India. Replacing them at the airport would cost 35 euros each—a frustrating and unexpected expense!

After lot of challenges and complains I should discuss good things also. Not only good but things which make Austria different from the rest of Europe. Things which can turn on any person. Yes, Music and Architecture.

Austria being a musical country has given a lot of famous musicians. Mozart & Beethoven was exceptionally famous. One can enjoy classical concerts at heritage venues at a cheaper price compared to Millan or Paris. Many free concerts could be observed on the old streets in the city center. Even you can find musical instruments to play at homestays.

River Flooded with Nudity

Day 2: EuroVelo 6 (EV) Between Vienna & Bratislava

On the second riding day we were on the River Route EV6, our way to Bratislava. It's an exclusive international bicycle highway along the river Danube. After 25km, we saw some naked people walking on the road. Soon we realized that we are in the naked zone when we saw people eating in an open restaurant fully naked. Then as we moved forward, the complete stretch of the bank was filled with nudity. We paddled without looking at our mobile for the route. Soon we reached at the dead end and surrounded by the river on three sides. We were distracted by the nudity! And we lost our way and paddled 4km in the wrong direction. “Wrong or right!” Satya pointed out that has only happened so that we can make the experience of it. And we decided for a river bath. Many times I saw dreams of not having clothes on my body in public places and during the whole dream, I remain in shame.

We asked a dressed couple (was passing us) on the road if we can take a bath in the river. The replied, “Yes, but naked”. Soon after that, we enjoyed a different experience. Now I think that I will never see that dream again!

Assets of Bratislava

Have you ever paddled distance between two capital cities of different countries in a single day! Here was the chance. After a long & confusing ride, ultimately we reached Bratislava. The capital city of Slovakia. The first thing we noticed was that Girls were more beautiful than Vienna. One fruit shop owner on day 3 confirmed by calling them the “ Assets of Slovakia”.

Devin Castle on the top of the hill

It is a different region with different language but people speak better English than Vienna. We observed that there were no separate lanes for cycles. People warned us for bicycle thieves. And everything suddenly decreased to half price. Local beer was bitter but strong. One can try Bryndzove Halusky (potato dumplings with sheep's-milk cheese), a sour flavor dish, no spices at all.

Devin Castle, which was one hour by the cycle was a good experience with photographic views along with the Danube river and Mulberries trees for snacks. The city center was crowded even during the weekday. Offer for Strip bar visit was only for a beer price.

Slovak Mountain Braille!

Route without road was not expected during the tour. And we got hopeless immediately after coming out of Bratislava when we met steep hill on the way, without a road. It was a sudden surprise for underestimated planned vision. We got blinded in the middle of the forest while the Mapy.cz (Route app.) was still active. We had a concern for reaching the destination on the same day as all the stays were booked in advance, unlike our Indian cycle tours where you can knock any door for the stay.

After wasting energy while dragging our bikes in the mud, we lost about two hours in the forest. The good thing was the daylight there till 10 pm to complete even if we lag behind the schedule. Valtice is about 80km from Bratislava but we covered 17 km more due to route confusion.

Flower Feilds

Currency Constraint

Seventy percent of our cycle tour was in Czech Republic. We already knew that there will be a different currency required. We couldn’t arrange Koruna in cash but only in the card. In some of the restaurants located in the small towns on the way, we really had a tough time, as there was no digital mean of payment. You cannot negotiate (if they charge you a higher conversion rate for euro exchange) because of language difficulty.

Day 4: Stay at Valtice

Yacht Life

Day 5: Yacht Yard next to Vestonicka Lake

On the 5th day, we came across a big water body – Vestonicka Lake. A lot of water on a wide landscape in front of the small hill. Bank was full of caravans like row houses. It was a paid camping area. After taking permission for free we clicked some photographs around. Suddenly an old man shouted and asked for help. He was trying to drag his yacht to hook to his tractor. After success, he invited us to his Caravan for drinks.

Not a single word was understood between him & us except, “India”. When we told him that we are from India after raising the toast. He started repeating “India… India… India…” like 50 times and showed us his photograph with an Indian Doctor. Indian doctors are really everywhere. So that was the reason for his madly act… HaHaHa.

The camping site was peaceful and luxuries. We spent about an hour and left with a beautiful experience.

Camping area next to Vestonicka Lake

Indian Food in Czech

Vietnam taught me how not to hate whatever is edible. But during the tour, food was the biggest constraint for my Brahmin eggiterian friend Joshi. Three times a day for all seventeen days he struggled to get his choice. He was lucky in major cities like Prague, Vienna, Brno… but at other places, he survived on fruits and eggs only. Whenever he use to ask for vegetarian food, they use to get him vegetables with meat…. HaHaHa. And most of the restaurants were without English menu card and Non-English speaking staff.

Prague & Brno has a number of Indian cuisine restaurants and almost all of them are of Nepali origin. Most of the Local Czech cuisines (like Svickova & Gulaash) are curry-based and spicy, so it matches well with the Indian flavor and texture. Except for one time in Prague (when they served me with smelly Wild Boar) my food experience was really delightful.

Pilsner – Alkaline Beer!

On day 12, we stayed in the countryside homestay near Telc. Martin, the owner of the property, divorced & living alone, invited us for beer during dinner. Told us about the history and socio-economic conditions of Czech. It was a surprise when he mentioned that Pilsner – the famous beer brand is alkaline.

Usually, I avoid drinking alcoholic beverages on consecutive days. It makes my throat very sour due to acidity on the third day. But, after a couple of day’s during this trip, we got habituated to beer with every meal of the day. On the scale of pH value from 0 to 14, value below 7 is considered to be acidic. Beer usually comes around 4 pH. I never imagined that a beer can be alkaline.

Day 12: Remote Routes

Bicycle Theft in Prague.

Day 9: Police Interogation

We were already warned in Slovakia for bicycle thefts when we just kept our (locked) bicycles in the lift lobby as the stay was on the 5th floor. We were lucky to get storage space in all destinations. But we were unfortunate in Prague.

After having a late dinner at 10 pm. While entering the Airbnb stay, we were asked by the (employed) caretaker to keep our bicycles somewhere else. We kept all three of them (locked together) just outside the stay on the walkway which was not allowed as per her. We argued with her for parking them inside also. She was not allowing for any of those options and was suggesting us to park them in the railway station which was very far. We were very tired after cycling about 100km. And we did the serious mistake by leaving the bicycles as it is.

At 7 am next morning Satya wake me up with a serious voice – Meri Cycle nahi hai bahar”. I was shocked and quickly ran out to see. Two of our cycles were standing apart, a thick wired lock was chopped and Satya’s cycle was missing. The thief picked his bike from the middle of the two. The reason, his bike was only 6 months old, ours were 5 & 10 years.

Day 9: Prague Sightseeing (walking tour after Bicycle theft)

We informed the property owner and he called the police. Chances of getting it back were very less, it was just a formality as there were no CCTVs. It was the 9th day. We still had 6 days remaining for the ride. We quickly decided to buy another one. The owner gave us the address for nearby cycle shops. And also took us to one of the shops after visiting the Police station for formality.

It was KTM cycle shop. We liked one of them but it was a new one costing about 30K INR. Then we asked for second-hand and he was selling it for 16K INR which was a good option. Next day morning we picked that second-hand bike and continued our ride. The journey is always important than destinations and losses we meet in life.

Fear on the Highway

Most of the roads were safe. But when I was on the highway for some of the stretches, it was very scary. At one of the instance, the road was very narrow and was with two-way traffic. Suddenly one double-truck passed me just a few inches away. It was so fast that due to air pressure I was shaken and got imbalanced. At the edge of the road, my rear wheel slipped and cycle crashed down. There was a car behind me. And it just stopped before me. I was close.

Day 13: On the highway

After that, I picked my cycle and started rolling again. My rear wheel was wobbling as the rim got bent. Next 15Km felt like 150. I was superconscious and was feeling everything that was passing me. As if I suddenly got four eyes.

It happens similar in mountaineering but there you have to trust in your own skill and strength. Courage & confidence takes you to a different level. But here it was different you have to trust your time & luck.

Day 6: Brno to Kridla

Last Trouble

We decided to travel last day by train instead of riding the whole day so that we could arrange carton boxes to pack our bikes for air travel. We boarded at Mikulov and reached Vienna in one hour before lunch. To get down in the busy city train station with bicycles & bags is really a difficult task. There were two child prams were behind us at the train door. Somehow we managed to get down with the help of ticket checker.

After eating biryani at Pakistani restaurant we headed for our last homestay. We lost Satya on the way. We were worried about how he will reach the destination as his phone was with me. I & Joshi waited for 30 mins for him at the probable turn where we must have lost him. Then we decided to move forward thinking he will contact us on the phone if he fails to reach the stay. We were surprised seeing him near the stay location, he was waiting for form last 30 mins. Luckily he was having prints of all the addresses where we were supposed to stay.

Waiting for the train to Airport

But we lost too much of time as we were supposed to arrange the cartons. We were left with 2 hours after taking a bath. Five probable bike shops were located and we decided to go on foot because of carton sizes. We became hopeless when out of 5 shops 3 were closed and one was not a bike shop. We were counting on the last one left.

Fortunately, the shop was open and the owner was unpacking the new bikes. We asked him for those cartons humbly. He also jumped with joy when he heard that we want to buy those waste empty cartons. We gave him 10 euros for those precious empty boxes. We knew their price at the airport but the risk was if by chance they are short of cartons then what!!!

The shop owner told that we were lucky because he was about to close the shop in 15 mins. After seeing our situation that we were on foot and walked about 5 km to his shop, he offered us a drop to our homestay. Work was not over. We had to arrange the wide tape to pack and it was getting late. After arranging that, we sit outside the stay to dismantle our bikes and we wasted more than an hour to open the foot pedals, and failed to do that. Ultimately, I had to cut the box from sides to provision pedals pop-out, Jugaad!!!

Next day morning was also troublesome but we made it on time to catch the flight back to India.