It gives immense happiness after accomplishment of long awaited incomplete task. Joy multiplies with the time lag..... It took seven years to resume my very first cycle tour in Himalayas which remained incomplete due to climatic reasons. 2010 was the year when I started touring with my friend Bhanu. On very first attempt we planned to touch the moon. We decided to cycle from Chandigarh to Leh. That was a steep ambition and we didn’t even know how it feels to ride a cycle on hills. It all started with too much of celebration with media and friends and got terminated in the middle at Manali due to Flash floods. Mean while I got married, got child, did mountaineering course and experienced five more cross country cycle tours. But Leh remained fantasy.
On last mountaineering expedition I introduced a new adventure mate, Peter. He wanted to ride this ultimate tour on his debut. Week before he got back from seven thousander peak, Satopanth. He was fit and acclimatized like snow leopard. Garhwali guy with saint looks, having long beard but supple moves. Never use to sleep on bed! Peter was a hardcore mountaineer with never say die spirit. And he was on the face when feels odd, but was little introvert. He manage to have Adventure Company in the name of Backcountry India in Mussoorie.
On the other side Bhanu, my old partner was a live wire. All tours we had were full of timeless memento. But we were opposites on some grounds. For me everyday destination during the tour is linked with time but for him time doesn’t exist. I used to appreciate his way but his dominance was the villain sometimes. Although I used to hate his lousiness but I was so obliged to call him for this tour as he is the one who pulled me into this adventure.
Day 01: Start at Manali and Night at Police chowki
At Manali, half day was gone and we were packing and reviewing the checklists, actually waiting for the third member for the trip. Peter reached at 12 noon. I had made all the arrangements for him. Rajesh’s Trek 3700 with a carrier fitted and my old pannier were ready for him. He was supposed to ride immediately getting down from Dehradoon-Manali bus.
We started late at around 3PM from Resort and had lunch at Palchan and tea at Kothi on the way. It was getting dark and foggy after that. Our target was to reach atleast Marhi. But we stopped at Gulaba(8pm), the police check post as it was very difficult to see beyond 10m. We requested Police Inspector for night stay. He was not sure if they had any space. There were about 20 policeman staying in 3 pota cabins. Some of them were cooking food , only Daal and Chapatis. There condition was miserable like prisoners. Few of them were helpful and were asking if beddings are arranged for us. It started raining and Potacabins started dripping. We couldn’t find a vacant bed. These people were living like rats and we were searching for one corner in that rate hole. One person told that they have some space in the building up hill which was under construction. So we got there. There was a roof and and some unplastered walls but no floor. And some stinking beddings of laborers. We had no choice in that rainy night. This was the second worst place; where I sleept after Khaliya Top (Uttrakhand tour 2013).
Day 02: Tourist Village Sissu (Gulaba to Sissu)
We started early in the morning at 7am with empty stomochs. After two hours of paddeling we had breakfast at Marhi, it started raining again, and stopped us for 2 hrs. I was doing Rohtang for the second time so I knew the trail and accent was easy for me. For Bhanu it was getting difficult because of height.
We reached Rohtang at 1PM and celebrated our first achievement. We enjoyed jetty downhill ride after pass but last 4km till Koksar were shaky. I was feeling strong current on the handle.
We had lunch at Koksar and stayed at Sissu. Oak trees were grown green last year they were yellow during Killar tour. We stayed at ___ home stay. Room window opens toward a majestic waterfall which flows into the Chandrabhaga (satluj) river. We had evening walk after a bath. I remember yummy pale yellow local butter served with food.
Day 03: Drizzling Jispa
Third day was a drizzling day. Bhanu was little slow and he lagged behind near Tandi bridge. It was up and down till Tandi. We ate lunch at two places in Keylong and waited for Bhanu for more than 2hrs. I remember some guys on XUV stopped and offered us juice and chips. Only warmth expected from car having PB number. We asked about Bhanu as he again lagged behind. They told he is an interesting guy, enjoying alone on the road doing 180 degree leg splits about 3km behind on the road.
It was flat landscape Road till Jispa in the end but rain continiued and we shivered in the hell till we got accommodation. A very old man opened the door after we knocked. He asked us to come from the back door. He showed us rooms on the first floor. I asked for the warm local milk and removed my wet cloths and sat on the life-size window overlooking the main road waited for Bhanu for one hour. After reaching he had some hard feeling for not waiting for him. We defended saying it was raining and there was no shelter in between and wanted to find accommodation as early as possible. One side of my pannier was drenched due to rain I checked if Bhanu had any polythene spare for me but it was negative.
In the evening while having dinner, two guys from Enfield camp were discussing about the flash flood near Zing Zing Bar. On asking further they told the highway is blocked from last two days and about 1000 people are stuck on both side of the landslide. And some bikers lost their bikes in the flood while crossing. Our only concern was accommodation in zing zing bar not the flood as we knew that for cycles it’s not a big deal.
Day 04: Zing Zing Nala
Next day Bhanu told that he will come little late and we can start early. Me and Peter packed up early as it was a long route with land slide zones. Paranthas in breakfast at Darcha were very oily. It was rough uphill road after the bridge for next 23kms. Road smoothened as we approached Deepak Taal. We had Lunch at Patseo. It was smooth gentle ascent ahead till Landslide zone. After watching that Long jam we moved to the side trail and reached the hazardous zone where river was flowing on the road. Flood bought lot of Moraine on the road. It would have little easy for us to walk but we wanted to save our shoes from getting wet. We did half paddling and crossed the zone.
It started raining with cold wind. We reached lower Zingzing Bar but there was no arrangement for stay. We had tea there and moved ahead in the rain and reached upper zing zing which was 6km extra. There were only few tents but with lots of bedding. We chose one corner and spread our wet cloths to dry. We were again waiting for Bhanu. He reached after 2hrs taking lift from a truck. He told that he is not able to paddle on this height. He decided to take rest for next day. He wanted to prepare for the second challenging pass – Baralachala.
Day 05: Long Day: To Sarchu and Back
We started early again after eating eggs. Road continued to be smooth and gentle. And before reaching Pass it started snow we had no option but to paddle hard as temperature was going down with chilling air and there was no shelter but 2km long land slide zone above Suraj Taal. We underestimated the pass and it was not coming. Uphill struggle with snowfall is very interesting; you can balance temperature with your paddling workdone. Baralacha Pass was disappointing without foreground. It looked like a small mile stone on the side of the road.
Climate after Baralachala was totally different. Sun was visible and warmth can be felt when we stopped for some pics, We enjoyed the downhill after putting up the extra gears but the road condition was too bad. After having a tea at Bharatpur, we removed our jackets as the road was straight but broken for next 20kms.
Soon topography changed into flat land. Sun was playing between the white clouds and rendering shades on the bald golden mounds.
Suddenly my eyes noticed something which converted all my joy into worry. I said “Ho gaya Panga”. Peter asked what happen why you are slowing down. I pointed toward the front wheel and stopped to show him the wobbling tyre. He saw and said “ Kya fark padta hai, thoda sa teda hi toh hua hai”. But I knew that was a big problem and we did not had extra type. We kept three spare tubes but no extra tyre. We were so unlucky that it happened exactly in the middle on Manali and Leh.
We reached Sarchu at around 3PM and had lunch at some shop called Budha where we asked for night stay also. While eating I decided for Plan A and Plan B. Plan A was to ask Bhanu for his cycle’s tyre in case if he is not cycling because of AMS (Acute Mountaineering Sickness). Plan B was to bring new tyre from Manali. I convinced Peter to go back. We took off the cycle tyre and a small day bag and stood in front of police checkpost for some vehicle. On request, one Innova driver agreed to help us as he was also travelling toward the same direction. Soon we came to know that he is going to Mumbai and will be very happy if we can company him till Manali as he was not very confident because of bad weather. Circumstances started helping us.
We reached back to Bhanu at around 7PM. Without wasting time I explained about both the plans. He told he is feeling well and can start again from tomorrow rather he was interested for a free quick ride to Manali (so that he can upload some pics!). Quickly we jumped into the car. All obstacles were crossed easily as we knew every ditch on the road back to Manali. But due to too much of fog after Jispa, made us stop at Keylong. All four of us slept in a single room in the same hotel where we ate lunch while going. Driver was from Bihar and he was working for some Marwadi Industrialist in Mumbai from last 15 years. On the way he told all the story about how his boss made plan to ride bike with his friends, and why he(driver) was called from Mumbai alone in that car and why he was going back alone again. Rich brat called recovery van from Mumbai!
Day 06: Landslide Adventure.
We left early morning after taking a cold bath and crossed Koksar at 10AM. But this was going to be a difficult day. We spent about 3hrs at koksar side of the Rohtang pass land slide and spent about 5hrs on the other side of the Rohtang pass. We had no choice but to wait and practice photography.
During landslide clearance at second zone, Bhanu got pinched when we asked once again for his tyre. He got annoyed and asked us to purchase him multitool and air pump as decided not to come with us. We purchased all necessary spares at Bike Bar on Mall road from Naveen, told him the entire story and asked options to reach back. During late hours we asked lift at Private Bus stand from loaded trucks, we tried at J&K taxi stand, nobody agreed. It was 11pm in the night. So I decided to stay back at Manali and walked toward Old manali for cheaper accommodation and we got one who agreed for 700rs.
Day 07: New Company for Manali Sarchu Ride.
People told that Leh bus leaves at 6am in the morning from Manali. We ran toward bus stand which was about 2km. But there was no bus. We saw one taxi driver talking to 5passangers who was going to Leh. But he cancelled the trip when he came to know that he can leave only at night because of taxi association issue. Then I saw another J&K taxi who was telling that he has a permit. I arranged all those passengers again for that taxi. This new taxi driver was charging less but he had only one constraint that he was waiting for his friend who was coming from Jammu by bus.
Jammu bus was supposed to reach at 11PM so we had Breakfast mean while and get to know each passenger. Only three people out of five were left for the journey, a Dutch lady, Japanese boy and Nepali old man. We waited till 12 noon for driver’s friend but there was no sign of him, his phone was also not working. We enquired at Bus stand office also; they called the bus driver and gave us latest information. Bus reached at 1PM. So we spent 8hrs on bus stand. Taxi driver’s friend was a Jawan in Ladakh Scouts. He told that J&K phone sim do not work in other states and everybody in the bus was having Jammu sim only.
We reached Keylong at 4pm where we had lunch and reached Sarchu in the night 2PM. We spent good time with foreigners exchanged our culture values and took their contact details.
Day 08: Resuming journey and Twin Passes
Again we started journey with great enthusiasm. 830am we started, enjoyed Ghata loops for 1.5 hrs. I was exhausted before Nakeela Pass and asked dextrose from some French bikers. We managed to reach Nakeela by 130PM and decented to Whiskinala for lunch. Whiskinala was strategically situated between the two passes to fillup some calories. We again started 3PM and reached Lachung La Pass at 430PM. This one did not felt difficult as we were charged. After 34 days body start behaving like a biochemical machine and your conversion rate for food to energy improves enormously.
From Baralacha la to Lachung La is one kind of topography. After that it is a different world. I’m talking about Pang Valley. Pale Yellow Mountains, Cave like narrow valley, road running with the Calm River and visible stars in the daylight. We reached Pang at 630PM.
Accommodation we stayed was run by three ladies Grandmother, Mother and a girl. Front hall was for shop, kitchen & dining. Rear hall was a dormitory. There was a very dirty toilet available in the backyard which I avoided the next morning.
Day 09: Table Land Odyssey
After climbing 5km for 30mins we reached a flat valley of Moore. We moved on to the top gear to takeoff from the 50km long flat land highway at the altitude of 4800m. Slopes of the adjacent mountains were so eye pleasing that I was willing to sprint to the top. We meet a solo cyclist who was travelling in the opposite direction. He was Bangali settled in Australia a music professor in his 40s.
We reached Debring at 1230pm had lunch. We planned to cross next Pass Tanglang la the same day but because of scorching heat of the sun we postponed for the second day. We stopped at one accommodation she was an old women. Somebody insisted us to stay there as she was poor but helping. But we had a language barrier. She served us butter tea which is prepared using Churpe(dried up yak milk) and sattoo(barley floor). Than we decided to wash our cloths as we had time and Sun.
There was a hand pump in the backyard. We pressed our hands between our legs when our hands freeze on every squeeze while washing. We also took bath after 3 days.
Day 10: Last Challenge: Tanglang La
It was a smooth ride from Debring. One guy was cycling solo form Rohtak. And then suddenly one foreigner crossed us in a speed waving his hand. We realized some competition was in process. Some more Indian cyclists crossed us. One foreigner on 6th position was little slow so we choose him as a target and that made us complete Tanglangla 30min before the targeted time.
After reaching Pass my happiness started flowing through my body and I was feeling weightlessness. It was a big satisfaction for me to complete my last challenge.
We meet some French guys who were from Shamney. Then we started our long descent of 61km till Upshi. Some of the mountains were in the shade of purple and magenta. Villages were like small lush green patches in the baige topography.
We had Lunch at Upshi. Road along the Indus till Leh was up and down but slopes were easy. But opposite winds made the last 50km stretch so difficult that we fought for every kilometer in the open lands. After Thikkse it got settled when road got covered with some trees. We reached Leh before dark.
Ending Days: Missing Bhanu & Returning
Next day Peter wanted to go for Khardung la,, but I was not interested in that scorching heat. For me tour was over. Peter completed hi swish and came back in the evening. We were worried for Bhanu. While roaming in the main Bazar of Leh, it was a surprise we meet Bhanu again. He was with some guys. We were curious to know how he got there. He told in short cut that his cycle frame is in Pang, tyres in Upshi and he is enjoying at Leh! This is Bhanu…. Ha ha ha. I know he must be feeling bad about leaving him back but we didn’t want to complete this tour in 20 days. In Mountaineering if somebody is not fit we hold him to the camp. For cycling it’s OK to ride alone. I thought he will be OK without us like a free bird. But I didn’t know that he will remove me from hi facebook friend list for doing so.
Next day we reach back to Manali by Tampo traveler. Stayed one more night at Manali and travelled back to home by car. I dropped Peter at Ambala.
Third day was a drizzling day. Bhanu was little slow and he lagged behind near Tandi bridge. It was up and down till Tandi. We ate lunch at two places in Keylong and waited for Bhanu for more than 2hrs. I remember some guys on XUV stopped and offered us juice and chips. Only warmth expected from car having PB number. We asked about Bhanu as he again lagged behind. They told he is an interesting guy, enjoying alone on the road doing 180 degree leg splits about 3km behind on the road.
